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Do you have any feeding tips?

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jp
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« on: May 03, 2010, 06:30:15 pm »

If you have any feeding tips please put them up for all the members to see it will be a big help to all the members what are on here Smiley Wink
« Last Edit: May 03, 2010, 06:37:49 pm by jp » Report Spam   Logged

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Donnie_K
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« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2010, 06:44:02 pm »

lol, TONS!

First you need to be sure of your animals health and environment. Alot of animals won't eat if they're stressed out, and alot of things can stress them out. Like improper temps or humidity. If it's a nocturnal animal like most pythons or boas then light can stress them out. Too large of a cage will stress them out and often cause them not to eat. Glass cages that are see through on all sides can also be a factor as it leaves the animal feeling exposed and insecure. I know there's often alot of discrepancy on what's right for any species. It's best not to look at how pet stores and other flippers keep there animals, and instead to look at some of the larger breeders and successful keepers like NERD or Prehistoric pets.. BHB, etc... Internal parasites can sometimes go undetected if you haven't had a fecal done and can also cause an animal to not want to eat. Impaction, constipation, resporatory infection. Make sure there are no underlying problems before you jump to conclusions.

When feeding frozen thawed food items, be sure the temperature of the food item is warm enough, not just thawed. May be a good idea to look up online what the core body temperature of a rat is live, and keep a temp gun handy. Also some animals will not strike at a food item if they pick up the heat signature from your hand behind it, I learned this the hard way. Use long hemostats or tongs.

Sometimes hesitant eaters can be persuaded to eat by scenting the food item with chicken down. Most boids go nuts for bird. Though I personally don't recommend feeding raw chicken due to the risk of salmonella bacteria.

DO NOT jump right to force feeding. If your ball python hasn't eaten for 3-4 weeks... that's no reason to even start to be concerned, it's not uncommon for some species to go off feed up to 6 months a year once they hit sexual maturity. If your animal is not showing serious weight loss to the point of causing health issues, it's not time to force feed. It will only cause them to associate food with stress.

Before I knew how bad light bothers nocturnal animals, I used heat lights (now I use belly heat on my pythons and they are MUCH happier). With some babies it was difficult to get them started feeding, until I noticed a pattern. The lights were on a timer and they would come to the front of their hides and wait about 15 minutes before the lights go off, soon as the lights went off they'd come out of the cage and roam. This proved to be the opportune time to offer them food. Though since I quit using lights I haven't had this problem. lol.

Hope some of you find this post helpful.
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« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2010, 06:57:55 pm »

very good did you make this poster on your own or did you get it from some where if you made it all very very good job mate Smiley that is one of the best feeding tips i have read for a long time well done mate it is very helpful
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« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2010, 07:02:56 pm »

that's all based on my own experiences and things I've seen man.  Afro
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« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2010, 07:05:22 pm »

very good mate it is the best way to learn by your own mistakes it is very helpful mate thanks for putting it up for us on here to read Smiley you are a very good member on here Smiley
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